As our small propeller-powered plane begins its descent into Ilulissat I'm glued to the small porthole-shaped window mesmerised by the breathtaking views. Once we break through the stationary clouds and snow-capped mountains, the sea reveals itself for the first time. Frozen, motionless like a snapshot in time, the first signs of cracks are beginning to appear across its glistening surface.
Trapped within it is a mass congregation of icebergs waiting for the waters to melt so they can continue on with their journeys. With a population of 4,, Ilulissat is the third largest town in Greenland; it is also home to the northern hemispheres most active glacier and is believed by scientists to be the birthplace of the iceberg responsible for sinking the Titanic.
The plan is to stay in and around Ilulissat for the next three days. It is also home to Restaurant Ulo, one of Greenland's most prestigious restaurants. Born in Denmark, head-chef Jeppe Ejvind Nielsen has been living and working in Greenland since and over the past decade has established himself as the country's leading chef. His modern style of cooking combined with his dedication to Greenlandic produce has earned him huge acclaim throughout both Greenland and the wider Nordic region.
As I make my way down to the restaurant for dinner, it's hard not to stop and stare in wonderment at the view outside. Hotel Arctic sits on top of a small hill on the periphery of Ilulissat and offers unrivalled panoramas across the small town and the frozen seascape. As the sun disappears slowly behind the icebergs obstructing the horizon, I wonder to myself if the northern lights might make a guest appearance at some point tonight.
The first course is poached stingray, fished locally and served with wasabi nuts. It is clear from the meticulous attention to detail and presentation on the plate that Nielsen has a huge respect for his ingredients.
